They are more expensive and require a special double barrel caulking gun, as well as special mixing nozzles. Make sure to purge the nozzle prior to applying it!!! There are 2 ways to fix it.
If you reapplied the epoxy the second time I would try the high build without any reducer, if it even called for it. First though you need to remove all the epoxy. I would use a piece of 6" DA sandpaper and use a scuff pad as a backing pad and fold it into a "U". Dip the sandpaper into a bucket of water and wetsand the primer off. Once all the primer is off and dry apply the non reduced high build.
Only use high quality primer though! Cheap paint product tend to shrink. The second way is to dig all the seam sealer out. At work we use 3M seam sealer. I can get numbers for you tomorrow if you need them. After the seam sealer has setup you can scuff it and either apply sealer and then paint. Or you can re-prime the seam sealer, scuff and then paint or just go with the paint.
Either way is fine. If you answer the above questions we can get to the bottom of why and fix this. If we have to I'll call Fusor tech support but I need to know more. Yes, the epoxy paint was Martin Senour paint. The high build primer was Summit Racing 2K brand. It does indeed get reduced. The original process was to apply 2 coats on the epoxy to the sandblasted and degreased seams.
I let it set up for about 2 hours and then applied the seam sealer. Let the seam sealer dry for about an hour. Then I applied 2 coats of epoxy over the seam sealer. Let it dry for 2 hours or so and then put on 2 to 3 coats of high build.
The first time I applied the paint it did not crack for months. I first noticed the cracks about months later in the winter.
I will be honest the second time I have tried some spray can primer but it is not exactly a cheap primer and bought at a place that does nothing but sell autobody stuff. I may also see about sanding a little more aggressively down into the sealer I dread the thought of trying to dig the seam sealer out and start over.
I'm subscribing. After body work i acid cleaned everything. Kleen and strip phosphoric acid from home depot and then dish soap. Then I used epoxy primer from tcp global on all the seams and panels.
Then sanded the epoxy primer. I did not use high build, only epoxy primer. When i was done sanding i used a single part ureathane seam sealer from eastwood. Powder Coating.
In Stock. Choose Location Ship To:. Add to Cart. Save for Later. Share this product. Skip to the end of the images gallery. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery. Frequently Bought Together. Eastwood Rust Converter. Price for all checked items:. More Info.
Application Tips. Safety Information. Customer Reviews. Make sure vehicle is on level ground. Remove old sealer. Wipe down area with PRE z to remove any debris and dust. Install mixing tip. Put tube in application gun and equalize the two parts until they are uniform in color. Apply product to surface. This product will flow out and self level. Produces approx. Order before , same day shipping! In stock. In stock This product is in stock and readily available to dispatch.
On order This product is not in stock. Order before 10pm, same day shipping Up to days returns Always reasonably priced Questions about 3M? Speak to a product specialist! Skip to the end of the images gallery. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery. Fast drying seam sealer This 1K sealer is a high-solid adhesive sealer, that cures to a tough, permanently flexible material within 24 hours when exposed to atmospheric moisture. Powerful adhesion on many surfaces The seam sealer is known for its strong adhesion on bare, primed and galvanized steel.
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